Hello. I recently noticed that my Toyota Corolla unlock button on my key fob is dysfunctional and sends the lock signal instead. The only way I was able to unlock my Toyota was with my key. Does anyone have the Sub-GHz file for a Toyota Corolla? (I only need the unlock one) if you do, thanks!
Hello, I recommend taking your key for repair or manually unlocking it. The most common issue with keys is usually due to a weak battery. In your case, there is no Sub-GHz file for the Toyota Corolla because Toyota and most cars use key protection via rolling code, meaning a universal Sub-GHz file does not exist for Toyota or any other vehicle. If theoretically you were to synchronize the car key with the flipper, the primary key would likely no longer function.
Imagine if there was only one code to unlock all Toyota. One click and every Toyota within 200-300 feet unlocks? Criminal would love that. 
Personally I would take the remote apart, remove the battery, and clean the remote. Go to YouTube to see how people clean the insides of remotes. Then replace the battery with a new one and re-assemble the remote.
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Dear jmr,
Thank you for your assistance, but the key fob is very old and even when I tried going to a nearby store for repair, they kept saying that the damage done to my key fob was too severe. Do you have any tips on how to get a new key fob (and at least make it bypass rolling codes (I don’t really care if it opens other cars as most people around me own motorcycles and other automobiles that don’t get affected with the signals))? I also can’t really buy a new key fob, I just need the signals, like a bruteforce signal since the Toyota requires rolling codes.
You can’t brute force rolling code for modern cars. There are just too many potential combinations.
I think newer corrolla’s use denso keyfobs, from 2012 ish on, before maybe more easy to copy but if you will have to get a replacement key added to you ecu, depend on what year you might be able to pair a blank one with simple dash inputs, others need toyota software and a obd2 progger with it.
@hecker2024 Only if you try somehow to enable the key to catch 3 to 5 signals and then try a rollback attack, I think that’s the only way that would serve your purpose. But again, if it physically doesn’t work…
I have tried rolljamm on my newer toyota and it will not work, if i try to record it at a distance where i am nowhere near my car,then replay the signal next to the car it still does not cooperate, there seems to be active communication, so i think this also depends on the year of the car. To say this rude, this only still works on older shitboxes 
And mine is is also out of factory waranty time so also not something to call new anymore, on pre 2009 car’s you can do a lot more, but new ones are becoming a lot less easy to open especially with only something like the FZ, you will need a hackrf at least or a bladerf with multiple radios being active to accomplish a proper dump and replay of stuff cause it actively changes crc.
Especially if the wireless key is disabled open/start without the button , the replay feature is a lot harder and you cannot just dump a antenna with a 30 bucks 10w handset from china so you can drive off 10km before it runs out of range.
But the negative side of the car is, it still uses old canbus, and that is how they mostly open/start and steal toyota’s nowdays. By just jerking a wire from the head light unit and saying open plx with a canbus injector. Then they just program a blank key into the ecu and drive off like its their car. Hurray for insecure communication protocols.
@Sir_Fap_A_Lot Honestly, I assume he has an older Toyota since the issue seems to be making a new key, so maybe rolljamming could work, but if his button doesn’t work, it’s unlikely he’ll figure it out now. As for new Toyotas, I don’t know what key they use since I don’t own one. Regarding can-bus injection, that’s true. I’m just waiting for my MCP2515 module shipment to arrive so I can connect the flipper to the car’s
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yeah i did do a quick search online but except some default documentation , finding more wanted details on those denso keys is not as open as i hoped for but i guess it will be a matter of time. everything can be broken
Yeah, it all depends on how much time you dedicate 
Rolljam requires multiple devices. Were you thinking of rollback or simply recording a single code out of range of the car? Don’t be so sure these tricks only work on the very old cars though. As best as I can tell Honda implemented proper security for a long time and recently removed the immobilizer on newer US cars as a cost savings measure. They didn’t do that in any other country I’m aware of. I suspect that “cost savings” backfired with all the lawsuits and hopefully it has been added back to 2024 Honda. So there are a few recent model years sold in the US that had the problem. I don’t know if it applied to every US model in that time frame though.
Not sure about those denso fobs and some newer audi etron for example, tried recording, (rolljam just jams frequency , makes you push the button again, record that one as well, and at the same time/ just after replay the first key so the car thinks it just got opened legit.
So far this seems to work, but when you leave some time in between, even without using the fob, replaying the older (in time not previous keypresses) keys seems not to open the car.
On the corolla i get haptic feedback but instead of opening it is still locked/locking, and the audi did not do anything, tried with the rf portapack when just got it to play with , but never actually looked at the data so i have no clue what its sending and what counters/checksums they have.